When it comes to sunscreen, there’s one golden rule: wear it every single day. But beyond that? You’ve got options. From 100% mineral formulas to sheer chemical blends, the world of sun protection is more diverse (and more science-backed) than ever.
So, how do you choose between mineral and chemical sunscreens? And is one better than the other?
We caught up with Alessandro De Luca, Medical Affairs Specialist at ISDIN, to clarify fact versus fiction about mineral versus chemical. Because no matter your skin type, tone, or texture, understanding your sunscreen can help you make a choice you’ll actually stick with—and that’s what’s most important.
Let’s dive in.
Why daily sunscreen use matters
Let’s start with the basics. Broad spectrum sunscreen protects your skin from ultraviolet (UV) radiation—invisible rays from the sun that can damage skin cells and speed up the aging process. There are two main types of UV rays:
- UVA rays are responsible for long-term damage like wrinkles and dark spots. They can also pass through clouds and windows.
- UVB rays are the ones that burn your skin, strongest on the sunniest of days. But they can also bounce off surfaces such as water and snow.
Other types of solar radiation also affect your skin. Some advanced sunscreens (mineral and chemical) also take these types of rays into account:
- Blue light has been linked to the appearance of dark spots and uneven pigmentation. It can also team up with UV rays to amplify their effects.
- Infrared radiation, or heat rays, can trigger oxidative stress in the skin.
Over time, sun exposure can lead to photoaging, changes in pigmentation, and even skin cancer, no matter your skin type or tone. That’s why dermatologists recommend using sunscreen every single day.
Finding your perfect fit
Sunscreens use chemical or mineral solar filters to absorb, reflect, or scatter the sun’s rays, helping to shield your skin. But as we’ve seen, not all types of solar radiation affect your skin the same way.
A similar line of thinking applies when it comes to different skin types, tones, and concerns. Deeper skin tones tend to need higher UVA protection, while lighter tones need higher SPF or UVB protection. And sensitive skin might do best with a gentle, specially formulated option.
This is where choosing your sunscreen can make all the difference—depending on your specific needs, there might be certain solar filters and formulas that work best for you. “Sunscreen isn’t one-size-fits-all,” says De Luca. “The most important thing is finding a formula that feels good on your skin—one that you’ll want to use every day.”
“The most important thing is finding a formula that feels good on your skin—and that you’ll use consistently.”
What’s the difference between mineral and chemical sunscreen?
Mineral sunscreen: Gentle, physical protection
Also known as physical or inorganic sunscreens, mineral formulas use natural minerals—zinc oxide and titanium dioxide—to form a protective shield on the surface of your skin.
How they work
These filters reflect and scatter UV rays, helping to prevent them from penetrating the skin in the first place. “Think of mineral sunscreens as a physical barrier,” explains De Luca. “They act like tiny shields, bouncing UV rays away from your skin before they can do damage.”
Key benefits
- Gentle on sensitive skin: According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, mineral sunscreens may be less likely to trigger skin irritation. That’s why dermatologists often recommend mineral sunscreens for babies, people with eczema, or sensitive or post-procedure skin.
- Great for all skin tones (with the right formula): While older formulas left a white cast, innovative mineral sunscreens (especially tinted or micronized ones) blend beautifully into all skin tones.
- Effective right after application.
Our Eryfotona Actinica & Eryfotona Ageless sunscreens are 100% mineral.
Chemical sunscreen: Adaptable, all-purpose coverage
Chemical sunscreens—also called organic sunscreens—use carbon-based ingredients like avobenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene, or homosalate to absorb UV rays, convert them into heat, and release them harmlessly from the skin.
How they work
“These filters act like sponges,” says De Luca. “They soak up UV rays before they can penetrate deeper and cause damage.” Because they absorb into the top layer of the skin, many chemical sunscreens tend to feel lighter and more like skincare—making them great for under makeup and a favorite among people with oily or acne-prone skin.
Key benefits
- Ultra-lightweight texture: Innovative chemical formulas tend to feel weightless, smooth, sheer, and often invisible on the skin.
- Great under makeup: They layer well with other skincare and cosmetics.
ISDIN Fusion Water MAGIC is a chemical sunscreen.
How to choose a sunscreen
Can’t decide whether mineral or chemical sunscreens are better? You don’t have to. Fortunately, De Luca says, “You can find both mineral and chemical sunscreens that feel nice, blend easily, and offer quality protection.” The FDA and the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) also recommend daily sunscreen use with either chemical or mineral filters.
“You can find both mineral and chemical sunscreens that feel nice, blend easily, and offer quality protection.”
What to look for in any sunscreen
Here’s what dermatologists—and De Luca—suggest to check off your list:
- Broad spectrum protection
- SPF 30 or higher
- Non-comedogenic ingredients (meaning they won’t clog pores)
- Suitable for all skin types or your skin type
- Water-resistant or not, depending on your needs
- Added skincare benefits like antioxidants, moisturizers, or 360° protection
What to look for by skin concern
The best sunscreen is the one that fits your skin. De Luca emphasizes, “We always say that the best sunscreen is the one you’ll actually wear.” And reapply.
Keep in mind that dermatologists recommend reapplying every two hours, especially if swimming or sweating. “That might mean a water-resistant mineral sunscreen for your morning run and a hydrating chemical formula for a midday touch-up.”
Here are a few things to consider depending on your daily needs:
- For sensitive or reactive skin, lean towards 100% mineral formulas with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Look for gentle options or ask your dermatologist—they always know best.
- With oily or combination skin, choose mineral oil-free, non-comedogenic chemical or mineral formulas. Any ultralight texture with a non-greasy finish should work well.
- For dry skin, opt for a formula with moisturizers like ceramides or hyaluronic acid. Since the sun can dry out your skin even further, a hydrating sunscreen can help fight back.
- Mature skin can benefit from formulas that not only protect the skin but also help repair sun damage. “Sunscreen is the most powerful ‘anti-aging’ product we have,” says De Luca. “It’s also the simplest. You just have to wear it.” Opt for a sunscreen that also targets the signs of photoaging, featuring peptides and antioxidants.
- People with deeper skin tones may want to consider a sunscreen with high UVA protection and blue light defense, as studies have shown a link between these factors and pigmentation issues.
- On sports or beach days, use a water-resistant mineral or chemical sunscreen. Stick formulas can also be great for targeted areas (nose, shoulders, ears).
“We always say that the best sunscreen is the one you’ll actually wear.”
Choose the one you’ll use
Whether you prefer mineral or chemical sunscreens, choose one (or two) that fit your needs and lifestyle. And remember, sun protection is essential for every skin type, tone, and age—every single day. The key is to find one that suits your specific concerns and preferences, then stick with it.
Your skin deserves some love for all it does. Treat it well—protect it today, tomorrow, and always.